Workmanship: Worktop & Kitchen Sink

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1 Kitchen: Cooking & Food Storage Zone
2 Kitchen: Microwave Oven Cabinet
3 Kitchen: The Sink Unit
4 Kitchen: Food Preparation & Cleaning Zone
5 Kitchen: Worktop & Kitchen Sink
6 Kitchen: Splashback

The guys from Asuka delivered two completed acrylic worktop pieces on Thursday 24-Apr-08, one for the hob area, the other for the sink area. Only the hob worktop piece was installed. As this worktop will have its own glass backsplash to be fitted later on, the hob worktop piece was made without a backsplash.

Hob worktop without backsplash

The other piece also had no backsplash. So it had to go back to the workshop to add the 5-cm (2-inches) backsplash. The sink worktop will use the white wall tiles (instead of glass panel) as a backdrop, to add contrast to the opposite side of the galley kitchen. Hence the acrylic top needed a backsplash.

Sink worktop piece with cut-out

Spill-proof edging design

Working the surface

Worktop had to return to workshop because backsplash was missing

Sealing worktop edges, now with 2-inch backsplash

Sealing the rim with silicone

Under-mounted sink before finishing touches

Completed worktop with under-mounted sink

NOTE that the acrylic worktop piece is simply laid onto the plywood base. No glue was used as the acrylic piece was made-to-fit the plywood base. The worker used silicone to seal the edges and the sink rim.

That means if we have to replace the sink or worktop in future, it would be a relatively easy and simple job. Just use a knife to slice through the silicone seam and lift up the acrylic worktop piece. The sink can similarly be lifted up and replaced once the silicone seam has been sliced through.

TEST: I tried to shake and move the acrylic worktop. It did not budge and the feel was solid. The supervisor smiled and assured me I had no worries because the acrylic worktop was (1) heavy and (2) the fitting was exact, owing to the templating production process.

These two factors result in a stable, solid worktop, despite no glue being applied to install the worktop.

Related Posts: Kitchen Works
1 Kitchen: Cooking & Food Storage Zone
2 Kitchen: Microwave Oven Cabinet
3 Kitchen: The Sink Unit
4 Kitchen: Food Preparation & Cleaning Zone
5 Kitchen: Worktop & Kitchen Sink
6 Kitchen: Splashback

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

previously i used LPG cylinder as cooking gas. how can i modify the kitchen cabinet if im to use LPG pipe? do i need to make a hole at worktop to allow access of hob hose to the pipe? need ur advice. TQ

GreenCoal said...

I assume the worktop currently uses an electric hob and you want to switch to using LPG cylinder gas, right? If that's the case the easiest solution is to engage a kitchen installer - he'll drill the holes thro' the back of the cabinet below the hob to connect to the LPG cylinder, assuming you have made provision for storage space for the LPG cylinder below the worktop.

If you're thinking of d-i-y, pl don't! There have been reports of LPG cylinder gas explosions in the home kitchen due to gas leakages as a result of faulty pipe connections. This is something you should not be thinking of d-i-y! In fact, if I'm not wrong, the law requires a licensed guy to do the gas connection and installation now. You should ask the staff at SP Services before you undertake any modification.

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Hi, thanks for your comments. While I will strive to answer all your queries please be patient as I am overwhelmed at work.

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GreenCoal

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